Wrap the yarn around your fingers

Wrapping the yarn around your fingers will help you to control the tension. This is how I do it. Once I started using this technique, my gauge was consistent in everything I crocheted.

After 19 years of wrapping the yarn this way, I have fewer crochet related pain issues and no carpal tunnel syndrome. Yay!

Sc in row below

The process of elongating the sc stitch, or long-sc.

Using this technique will make a crocheted blanket warmer.

From poncho to skirt

Can a crocheted poncho become a skirt? Yes! For instance, if your poncho is two rectangles joined together, then instead of stitching a neckline, you simply make the adjustment for a waistline.

You add elastic to the waist in one of three ways. You can fold over the top to make a casing to slide the elastic through. OR, you can sew a fabric casing to the inside of the waist and slide the elastic through it. You could even make large stitches in an X pattern to hold the elastic in place on the inside of the waistline.

Don't want to hastle with elastic? Use a drawstring instead.

As long as the poncho will fit the waist, it can be a skirt.

Only on Thanksgiving!

Things you can only say on Thanksgiving:
1. What a huge breast!
2. Tying the legs together keeps the inside moist.
3. Put Cool Whip on mine!
4. I have to undo my pants or I'll burst!
5. I'm in the mood for a little dark meat.
6. You want seconds?
7. It's a little dry, you still want it?
8. Wait your turn, there's plenty to go around!
9. Don't play with your meat!
10. Just spread the legs open and stuff it in.
11. Do you think you'll be able to handle all these people at once?
12. We don't have any more bedrooms, can't they all sleep on the living room floor? Honey?
13. I didn't expect everyone to come at once!
14. You still have a little bit on your chin.
15. How long will it take after you put it in?
16. You'll know its ready when the little thing pops up.
17. Wow! I didn't think I could handle all of that!
18. That's the biggest one I've ever seen!
19. I can't believe I ate the whole thing!
20. I'm going to get out of you ladies way now, and go take me a nice long nap!

Have a good one!

My Barbie got a birthday dress!

This is the cutest little dress I've seen in good long while. It even has a matching tote bag to go with it. I ordered it from http://violetunderground.etsy.com . The owner of this shop makes these herself. She puts a lot of attention to details in everything she makes and it shows.

If you have a little girl that loves to get new dresses for her Barbie doll, then be sure and check out this shop. You'll be glad you did. I know I am!

Don't frog that mile long scarf!

Okay, so you started crocheting a scarf while watching tv and the next thing you know that scarf seems to be a mile long. What to do? Simple!

Fold up the ends enough to form a pocket and sew the sides closed. Wa-lah! You got a scarf with pockets! Pretty nifty thing to have. Tuck your hands in the pockets to give them added warmth on those blustery days outside.

OR! If that isn't quite the answer you were looking for--fold the scarf in half and sew up one side 12 inches in the middle of the scarf. That will give you a nice hood. Now you're wishing you had the pockets too aren't you?

If that don't keep you busy for the next week, I'll see what else I can come up with.

My birthday present!

I got this awesome pincushion for my birthday. I am so proud of it! It's made with lanolin enriched wool so the pins will slide through fabric easier. And the little strawberry you see attached to it, is filled with emory so my pins will always be sharp and any burrs will be smoothed off.

Where did I get this awesome pinchushion? It came from a lady named Laurie. She has a shop on Etsy and she is so nice and made sure I got exactly what I wanted. That's why I wanted to share her address with you in case you know anyone that could use one of these. Or, if you just want to check out some of her other items here is her address: http://lovelaurie.etsy.com

You'll be glad you did. I know I am!

Later Gater,

Your Sandi

baby sling

baby sling, originally uploaded by picable.

You know those days when your baby just will not let you lay her down? And you got other things to do? Well this is the answer. It puts the baby right where she wants to be...up against your chest. And the straps hold her safely in place.

Gag Gift

Surprise! It's Christmas time again and you're broke. Wondering what to give your inlaws and outlaws? Well, here you go. You can't get any faster, cheaper, and easier than this. Bonus: they make you laugh.

Each pair requires four maxi pads. Lay two out flat for the soles. Take one of the others and lay it across the top in the toe area. Tape or glue the ends to the bottom. Do the same on the other 'shoe'.

Digging through your decoration stash, find some ribbons or even mistletoe and glue them on the top. Makes it look like you went to a whole lot more trouble than you really did.

Now wrap these babies up and toss 'em under the tree. Sit back with a cup of eggnog and relax. Your gifts are taken care of. Now aren't you the smart one?

Later Gater,

Your Sandi

I want a new dress for Christmas!

http://violetunderground.etsy.com

I found this shop on Etsy.com and was so impressed with her work I wanted to show it off.
These are priced so that you can become a collector of her work and make a girl proud to show off her Barbie's latest outfit. I can hardly wait to start my own collection!

Mary's Birthday Present

November is Mary's birthday. She's this really cool lady I know that came to America from England a long time ago. She still has the British accent and tea parties.

I crocheted this necklace for her because she loves handcrafted items and she makes me feel pretty special.

Happy Birthday, Mary! And thank you for being you. I think you're pretty special, too.

It does now

In the spirit of DIY, I cruised the yarn aisle to find the perfect shade for my fringe. You can make this with pearl cotton thread, or do what I did and use Micro Spun by Lion Brand.

I tried different hooks with this, but finally settled on a size D hook. You can also use a steel hook in size 2. I like the longer handle on the D and the head was large enough that it didn't split the yarn.

With hook in hand, I made a chain and one row of single crochet before I fastened off. I then cut the yarn in 9 inch lengths. I used one length per stitch.

You can make this fringe as long or short as you need. And it doesn't cost you $2 a foot to make it. It feels so much better than anything I found already made, and looks better, too.

Remember, when they tell you it can't be done, then just go and show them how it's done. It'll make you giggle out loud and proud that you didn't take no for an answer.

Does This Come In Another Color?

Have you ever needed something in a particular color and nobody had it? And then you made the mistake of asking if the store did special orders?

This happened to me recently when I needed fringe to sew on a curtain. First I had sticker shock while looking for fringe at the stores. It averages $2 a foot for the style I was looking for.

The price made me think I needed to make fringe for a living. And why not? It couldn't be any lamer than the lady on tv bragging about how she makes scrunchies for a living.

Okay, back to the problem with fringe. I couldn't find the fringe in the shade I needed at any price. And then it hit me, I can make it myself. The whole DIY philosophy developed over frustrated shoppers.

Next up is how I solved my little problem and how you can make fringe in the shade you want. No snooty salesclerks either.

Ghostly Pins

"I don't have time to crochet anything for Halloween!"

Relax, because this one can be crocheted quickly and best of all-- perfection is not required.

You will need a small amount of white yarn and a hook size that you are comfortable with. Two squiggly eyes and one small pom pom, pin back, white craft glue or a hot glue gun.

Begin with the head.

Rnd 1: Ch 5, join to make a circle, ch 2, 2 hdc, dc, 7 tr, dc, 2 hdc, sc, join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in next 12 sts.

Body

Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, join to rnd 1 of head with a sl st.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in back loops only of last row. (6sc)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, sc in back loops of first 6 sc, sl st in Rnd 1 of head. (8sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in back loops of next 8 sts, ch 5, turn.
Row 5: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 3 chs, sc in back loops of previous row, join to Rnd 1 of head with a sl st. (12 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in back loops of next 10 sts, ch 2, turn.
Row 7: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loops of previous row, join to Rnd 1 of head with a sl st.
Row 8: Rep Row 6.
Row 9: Rep Row 7.
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in back loops of next 7 sts, ch 3, turn.
Row 11: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, sc in back loops of previous row, join to Rnd 1 of head with a sl st.
Fasten off.
Push pom pom through the hole in the head. Glue in place from the back of head. Glue pin back on the back of head above the pom pom. Allow glue to dry. Glue two squiggly eyes above the pom pom nose. Allow glue to dry for 24 hours before attempting to wear these. Make more ghosts in the meantime. Make it a group project and you could potentially produce enough of these in a week's time that you will be able to use them as a fundraiser.
ENJOY!

Bootie B?

Informal Baby Bootie Survey! Which one do you like best, A or B? Why? or Why not?

All in the name of fun, please feel free to leave a comment on the latest Great Crocheted Baby Bootie Debate.

Bootie A?

I came up with two different crocheted baby bootie designs today. This one, I'll call Bootie A.

I'm taking an informal vote for Bootie A or Bootie B. So if you prefer one over the other, your comments are most welcome.

Isn't She Lovely?

Wearing a burgandy crocheted gown trimmed in black lace is Barbie. Every time I make one of these, I think I want to make a human size replica of the top and/or the entire gown. Wow! Barbie always did have an awesome wardrobe.

Sneek Peek

I'm excited about this jacket I'm making. It's my own design and so close to being done, I just had to share it with you.

The nights are getting cooler here. I'm glad I didn't wait to make this. Tonight as I was trying it on to check 'the look' out, my dog thought we were going outside. When even the dog knows its a jacket, I must be almost done.

Thanks, Fefe!

what is it?

I am hoping that someone can tell me what this tool is used for. It is made by Boye. I know it some sort of craft tool, but what?

crocheted wasp nests

It was an experiment. Crocheting wasp nests, that is. The theory behind it was that if wasps, bees and hornets could see a nest that was not theirs, they would leave. That is because they are territorial by nature.

I made these nests up thinking that it had to be the greatest idea ever. No pesticides. But do they actually work? I don't know! I gave them away and lost control of the experiment in the process. Making a mental note not to do that again.

Next time I make them I will leave them in the same tree I took the picture of. Then and only then will I truly know if they work. Why bother? Because I'm thinking that if they work that there would be others that would pay money rather than have to go outside and see wasps flying all around their children while they play in their own yards.

Chain chain chain

Chain woes. We've all had them.

If your chain is too loose--use a smaller hook for the chain and then switch to a larger hook when you do your first row.

If your chain is too tight--use a larger hook for the chain. Your first row will thank you. Switch to the smaller hook on the first row. Less pain in your hands and wrists when you don't have to fight to get the hook in the loop.

If your chain is uneven--i.e. not every loop is the same size--run your index finger and thumb up and down the chain, tugging ever so gently. This will help to re-size the loops so that they are now more uniform in size. Repeat as many times as you need to in both directions. Do this before you start your first row.

Just for a change...

Okay, I admit it. I like to do things a little different once in a while. That is how this little doggie came to be.

Seems that everyone is make amigurumi these days. But what if you wanted to make one like the teddy bears of old? Could it be done with crochet?

Yes it can. That is how I did this one. I made it a dog instead of a bear by changing the ears. It's different. I like it.

Make ahead gift time

Gifts can be made ahead all year long. You know that a gift giving occassion comes up every time you turn around. Why not put your crocheting skills to work on them ahead of time?

Don't stress over who is going to get it. Just make things up and put them away in a safe place. Then when you need a gift at the last minute you can go into your gift box and pick one out.

Less stress for you and yours and no last minute trip to the store to buy something. Plus, you get all that positive attention for being so prepared. And how thoughtful of you to have a handmade gift!

You will be smiling when you get there, and smiling when you leave. Even your husband will appreciate how much easier your crocheting has now made his life.

Have a good one!

Does it get any easier than this?

Just your basic bootie here. Custom make a pair of booties for anyone. It's easy! All you have to do is crochet a piece that is wide enough to cover the foot from the toes to the front of the leg. Keep crocheting that until it is wide enough to go around the foot. Join the edges at the top.

Turn your work so that you are now crocheting the side. Work back and forth until you have the length of the foot and sew up the back. Tie off the toe area and you are done!

But what if?

What if you only want part of your top lined? Can you do that? I don't see why not. This top had a nice lacey look that I chose not to cover with a fabric liner. It made for some interesting tan lines. So, I simply cut the fabric smaller than the actual bra cup and sewed it in the area I wanted to line. I tucked in the edges of the fabric the usual 1/2 inch and had no problems with it.

I still used safety pins to hold the fabric in place while I hand stitched the liner in.

Once I succeeded in getting a liner in, I relaxed and started having fun with making crocheted bikinis. You can, too!

Later Gater,

Your Sandi

Lining your crocheted bikini top

After you crochet the top, lay the fabric of your choice over the crochet and cut fabric about one inch larger than the part you want to line. Pin in place with safety pins. Check to be sure you have it pinned to the inside of the top.

Tuck the fabric in about 1/2 inch as you hand stitch the liner in place. Start at the bottom and work your way up one side to the top. Start back at the opposite side of the bottom and work your way up that side.

Remove pins. Your top is now fully lined. Congratulations you did it!

Putting a liner in your crochet bikini

This is the inside of a string bikini bottom that I crocheted. The liner is important if you plan to wear one in public. Plus, if you plan to make and sell crocheted bikinis, you will sell a whole lot more with a liner in place. Since people will pay twice as much for one that is lined, you can see the value in learning how to put one in.

First you crochet the bikini. Then you take the fabric you want to line it with and cut it out about one inch larger than the crocheted piece. Using safety pins, pin the liner to the inside of the suit.

Hand sew the liner in, starting in the crotch area. Fold the fabric under about 1/2 inch as you stitch your way up and around to the waist. Stop. Go back to the crotch area and begin sewing the opposite side up to the waist. Continue in this manner until the entire leg opening has been stitched. Then sew the waist.

Cluster and Double Square

Ch 8, Join with a sl st to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 2 dc into ring, yo and draw through all loops on hook--called 2dcCl--, ch 5, leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 3 dc into ring, yo and draw through all loops on hook--called 3dcCl--, * ch 2, 3dcCl, ch 5, 3dcCl into ring, rep from * twice more, ch 2. Join with a sl st to top of first ch-3.

Rnd 2: Sl st to first ch 5 sp, ch 3, work ( 2dcCl, ch 2, 3dcCl ) into same ch-5 sp, * ch 2, 3 dc into next ch-2 sp, ch 2, ( 3dcCl, ch 2, 3dcCl )into next ch-5 sp, rep from * twice more, ch 2, 3 dc into next ch-2 sp, ch 2. Join with a sl st to top of first ch-3.

Rnd 3: Sl st into first ch-2 sp, ch 3, work ( 2dcCl, ch 2, 3dcCl ) into same sp, * ch 2, 2 dc into next ch-2 sp, 1 dc into each of next 3 dc, 2 dc into next ch-2 sp, ch 2, ( 3dcCl, ch 2, 3dcCl ) into next ch-2 sp, rep from * twice more, ch 2, 2 dc into next ch-2 sp, 1 dc into each of next 3 dc, 2 dc into next ch-2 sp, ch 2. Join with a sl st to top of first ch-3.

Rnd 4: Sl st to first ch-2 sp, ch 3, work ( 2dcCl, ch 2, 3dcCl ) into same sp, * ch 2, 2 dc into next ch-2 sp, 1 dc into each dc worked in previous rnd, 2 dc into next ch-2 sp, ch 2, ( 3dcCl, ch 2, 3dcCl ) into next ch-2 sp, rep from * twice more, ch 2, 2 dc into next ch-2 sp, 1 dc into each dc worked in previous rnd, 2 dc into next ch-2 sp, ch 2. Join with a sl st to top of first ch-3.

Fasten off.

Free Pattern For Mom's Day!

Send me an email to obtain your free copy of this pattern.
How do you do that? Simple. Go to my profile and click on 'email me' and I will send the pattern to you. No strings. No spam. No charge.

My gift to you in honor of all mothers and just in time to make this belt for that special day (it's next month, in case you forgot).

Have a good one!

Your Sandi

The Two Sided Baby Blanket Pattern

One side is worked in white, the other is worked with four different colors in a striped sequence.

White is the MC, and the rest will be referred to as Color A, B, C, D.

Use a hook size that is compatible with the yarn of your choice. I used an H (5mm)hook and a worsted weight yarn.

A pictorial for this afghan can be found below to try and answer any questions you might have.

To Begin Afghan:

With MC, ch 163.
Row 1: Work 1 dc in 5th ch from hook, work 3 dc in next ch, dc in next ch, * sk next 2 ch, (dc in next ch, 3 dc in next ch, dc in next ch), rep across to end; do not work in last ch. Drop loop from hook. Do Not Turn.

Row 2: With Color A, starting at beg of last row, join with a sc in the ch before the first dc of first shell on previous row), ch 6 (keeping loops in front of last row) skip next shell and sc in first ch left unworked between shells on prev row, rep across row, ending with ch 6, sc in end ch (the free ch left unworked from prev row) , ch 2. Turn.

Row 3: Continue with Color A, work a sc in first dc of last shell st row, ch 2, * inserting hook through the dc and under the chain loop, work a shell (5dc in same sp) in center of next shell, rep across, changing to color B in last st. Drop loop from hook. Do Not Turn.

Row 4: Pick up dropped MC loop at end of the shell st row before last, * Ch 6, working in front of last shell st row, sk next shell, work 1 sc in space before next shell (same color shell as ch loop being made), rep from * across, end with ch 6, sc under ch loop at end of row. Ch 2, Turn.

Row 5: Continue with MC, work a sc in first dc of shell, ch 2, * inserting hook through the dc and under chain loop, work a shell (5dc in same st) in center of next shell, rep from * across. Drop loop from hook. Do Not Turn.

Row 6: Pick up dropped loop (color B), ch 6, working in front of last shell st row, sk next shell, work 1 sc in space before next shell, rep from * across, end with ch 6, 1 sc under ch loop at end of row.

Repeat rows 3, 4, 5, and 6 for pattern, working colors in a striped sequence and keeping MC on one side solid. Work until blanket measures the length you want or need. About 48 inches is a good length. End with a MC chain loop row.

For Last Row: With MC, ch 2, Turn, work a sc in next 4dc of last shell st row, * ch 2 work 1 sc in middle dc of next shell, rep from * across row to last shell, work 1 sc in middle dc of this shell and 3sc in last dc, Turning so that you are now working on the side of blanket, cont to sc across entire side of blanket as evenly as you can, working 3 sc into each corner, cont around entire blanket in this manner, join in beginning sc with a sl st. Fasten Off.

You may now add a border of your choice. You may use two strands of yarn to work a reverse sc around entire blanket. Or you may choose to add a ruffle. Or you may want to just continue in rounds of sc until border is the way you like it to look.

This is your pattern now. Make the border your way. I hope that I have helped you to be able to make the blanket.

I'll post a picture of my version of this completed blanket another day. Meantime, have a good one and I'll talk to you later gater!

Your Sandi

At the end of this row

At the end of this row, you put a sc into the ch after the last shell. Ch 2 and Turn. (You turn on ch loop rows)

Continuing with the White Chain Loop Row

Chain 6 and then work a sc into one of the white dc between the first two shells. Ch 6 and repeat across the row.

Chain Loop Row

Okay we are back to the white again. Row 4.

You pick up the loop where you left off and tighten it on the hook. Remember you did not turn at the end of the last row, so this row starts at the opposite end and that is where you'll find the white loop.

The Rest of Row 3

Row 3(shell stitch row) is continued by putting a shell(5dc) in the center stitch of each white shell. It is important that you pick up the ch loop at the back and stitch through it also. This anchors the two sides together. At the end of this row, drop the loop from the hook the same way you did before--pulling it out some so you don't lose your work.

Do Not Turn (on shell stitch rows)

Row Three

For Row 3(Shell St row): You will have to forgive me in that this picture is not matching up to the colors we are using at the moment.

With the blue yarn, I want you to sc in the top of the white row of shells. The first st only. Then ch 2,

Row Two

I'll call this the Chain Loop Row. I'm using this picture to help you see what it looks like after you get a few rows done. You'll understand it a whole lot better with this picture in mind.

For Row 2: Do not turn your work. Leaving the white yarn (MC) off the hook, go back to the beggining of the first row. Making a loop on your hook with the CC yarn (I used blue), join with a sc in the ch loop before the first shell made with the white yarn in row one.

(Before you yell at me, just stare at the picture a minute. It's not as complicated as it sounds.)

Now ch 6(with the blue) and sc in one of the unused ch loops after the next (white) shell on row one. Continue all the way across. When you get to the end of the row, sc in the previously unused loop at the end of row one.

Being careful not to undo any of the white stitches, ch 2 (with the blue) and Turn your work.

Begin With the Chain

I'm doing this one for a baby. It will be large enough to use as a crib blanket.

I used Caron Simply Soft yarn and a size H hook. That's 5mm for the hook and worsted weight. Your brand may have a 4 on the label next to weight.

For the foundation chain, with White(MC) ch 163.
Row 1: (shell stitch row) Work 1 dc in 5th ch from hook, 3dc in next ch, dc in next ch,* skip next 2 ch, (dc in next ch) rep from * across to end of ch. There will be one ch loop extra at end. We'll use it later.

You are going to drop the loop from the hook for now. I want you to pull the yarn so that it makes a very large loop. This way you won't lose any of your work.

Do not turn.

Making a Two Sided Blanket

This is a whole lot easier than it looks. One side is made with alternating rows of color and the other side is solid white. Both sides are worked together. When you master this little techinique you're friends and family members will brag about you to people you don't even know.

I'm here to show you how its done.

Why Pastels?

Ever wonder why so many crochet turotials are made using pastel color yarn? It's easier to see the stitches.

The hardest color to work with is black. Try it and see if you don't find yourself thinking(if not saying outloud) that you can't see the stitches.

That being said, I believe this photo might explain why we bother to stitch with black. The effect of contrast is awesome to behold. Makes it worth the extra time and effort.

Back Loop?

If you struggle with understanding the back loop/front loop that is mentioned so often in crochet--you are not alone.

To help you to 'see' it without being there to actually 'show' them to you; this is what I come up with that helped someone else find her back loops.

When you make a beginning chain and then go to crochet into that chain, you are crocheting into the back loop of the chain. Do this and look at it. You should now 'see' it in a whole new way.

When you crochet into the back loop of a stitch, that is the loop that is furthest from you. Front loop is closest.

Why do we do this? It gives us a loop to attach work to later on in the pattern. It makes a nice line on the crochet piece that is decorative.

Yum Yum

Easy Peach Pie

1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 cup milk
1 can peach slices
butter as needed

Dot a 1qt baking dish with butter. Combine all ingredients except peaches. Pour into baking dish. Spread peaches over top. Bake 40 minutes at 350 degrees (F).

Ribbing in Crochet

The ribbing that is found on sweaters can be done in crochet. For this example I used a smaller hook for the ribbing than I did for the sweater body.

To Begin: Ch 13.

For Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, Turn. (12sc)

Row 2: Sc in back loop only of first st and each st across to last st, sc in both loops of last st. Ch 1, Turn.

Rep Row 2 until you reach the length you need. In ribbing, the length equals the width. That is because you turn the ribbing around and changing hook to a larger size you then work the sweater up from there.

What Do I With It?

After working 4 rows of the cross stitch I did two rows of dc and then repeat the cross stitch rows. This is an example of how you might use the cross stitch pattern in an actual sweater.

Cross Stitch in Crochet Part Three

This picture shows the cross stitch worked over rows of ribbing. This is from a sweater that I made.

For Rows 3 and 4 of this pattern stitch you repeat rows 1 and 2.

Part Two of the Crochet Cross Stitch

Row 2: Skip first st, * dc in top of each dc of next cross-st**, work cross-st over next 2 dc. Rep from * across, end last rep at **, dc in top of ch 3, turn.

The Cross Stitch in Crochet--How To

In this example, I have prepared for the crochet cross stitch by working two rows of 39 dc each. Pattern is as follows.

End each row with a ch 3.

Row 1: Skip first st, * skip next dc; dc around post of next dc inserting hook from front to back(fpdc), dc around post of dc just skipped in same manner--cross-st made**, dc in next 2 dc. Rep from * across, end last rep at **, dc in top of ch 3. Ch 3, turn.

Get a Grip on Your Can, Man!

Use two strands of worsted weight yarn and a size K hook (6.5mm) to make this crocheted can holder with handle.

Ch 2, 6sc in second ch from hook, join to first sc with a sl st.

Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, join with sl st. (12 sc)

Ch 1, (sc in first st, 2 sc in next st) around, join with sl st. (18 sc)

Ch 1, (working in back loops for this rnd only) sc in each st around, join with sl st. (18 sc)

Ch 1, (working in both loops this and all future rnds) sc in each st around, join with sl st.

Ch 1, sc in each st around, do not join.

Cont to sc in each st around until can holder is 3 1/2 inches tall. Fasten off.

FOR HANDLE

Ch 12, sc in second ch from hook and in next 9 chs, 3 sc in last ch.

Working in back side of ch, work 9 sc across, 3 sc in end st.

Sc around both sides once more.

Fold in half and sc through tops of stitches together along the length of the handle. This gives you twice the width and a nice even seam. Fasten off at opposite end.

Threading the tapestry needle with two strands of yarn, sew handle to side of can holder. Weave in ends.

Enjoy your new crocheted can holder!

The Neck Warmer

Although I have placed this neck warmer on a bear, it was actually made to fit a woman. The bear was more willing to pose for the camera than the recipient of the scarf.

Neck warmers such as these are an attractive way to stay warm even when you are wearing a suit jacket. It also cuts down on the bulk of a more traditional scarf.

This pattern was taken from a 1997 Leisure Arts publication called Easy Assortment and was a supplement to Crochet With Heart. (In case you want to try and get a copy of the pattern from someone else. I am not licensed to sell or give the actual pattern to anybody)

This one is made using a pineapple design and it has an opening for one end of the scarf to be inserted through so that it stays on the neck. I used a different yarn and hook size than the pattern called for.

Not Your Granny's Purse

This is a quick to make purse that would satisfy any girl that loves wearing the latest fashion that you stitched up. It's easy to make, too.

All you do is make two granny squares and join them on three sides with sc. I added beads and used a simple sc bead stitch. I used a solid color yarn and a multi color yarn switching back and forth for variety. I then made an icord using yarn and sewed it on. With a fabric liner hand stitched inside the bag it is ready to go!

It takes one evening in front of the tv set to get this bag all but finished. Sew the liner during commercial break and you can do the hand stitching while you finish watching the show and that is all there is to it.

Does it get any easier or faster than this? I doubt it. Be ready to make lots of these for all the little girls in your neighborhood. Good use for all those partial skeins you got laying around, too. You could even sell these and put the cash away for some romantic candlelit dinner with your husband for being so understanding of your 'needing to watch tv' all those nights.

Have a good one!

Your Sandi

Mr Ribbet

Materials List:

Caron Simply Soft, DK SAGE

approx. 4 oz

Size G/4mm hook

10 1/2 inches long and 5 inches wide

Gauge: 15 sc and 21 rows = 4 inches

Notes: Fits an adult size hand. You may go up or down a hook size without having to alter the pattern as written.

Inc sc is done by putting two sc into one st.

Dec sc is done by inserting the hook into one st, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Pattern:

Chain 20

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across. (19 sc) Turn.

Rows 2-20: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (19sc)

Rows 21: Ch 1, work 2 sc into first sc(inc), work one sc in next 17 sts, 2 sc into last sc(inc), Turn.

Row 22: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn.

Rows 23-31: Repeat rows 21 & 22, ending with an inc row. DO NOT FASTEN OFF.

First Arm:

Beginning where you stopped on last row

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first 6 sts. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc dec, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, Turn. (6 sc)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc dec, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, Turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc dec, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, Turn.

Row 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st st, sc, dc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, Turn.

Row 8: Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st st, sc in next st, dc in next 3 sts, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, Turn.

Row 9: Ch 1, 2 sc in each of 1st two sts, sc in next st, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc, 2 sc in last st.

FASTEN OFF.

Second Arm:

Turn and work on opposite side beginning at edge. Attach yarn with a sc. Repeat as for first arm.

Head

In the 19 unworked stitches between arms begin by attaching yarn with a sc in first unworked stitch next to an arm.

Row 1: Work sc across to next arm. (19sc)

Rows 2-11: Ch 1, work sc across. Turn. (19sc)

Row 12: Ch 1 sc in first 4 sts, then using FRONT LOOPS ONLY dc in next 3 sts, sc in BOTH LOOPS in next 4 sts, then using FRONT LOOPS ONLY dc in next 3 sts, sc in last 4 sts. Turn.

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in first 4 sts, sc in the unused loops from previous row and continue to sc across row. Push dc sts out of your way.

Row 14: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, pull the dc sts down out of the way--do not work them.

Rows 15-19: Sc across.

Rows 20-25: Work one dec at beg and end of each row.

FASTEN OFF

The puppet is made from two pieces of identical shape. When making the second piece you only change the head by leaving off the eyes. Do this by working 19 rows of sc instead of following rows 12-14. Otherwise it is the same.

Put the two pieces together with Right sides facing out and work sc evenly around edges to join. Be sure to leave an opening at bottom for your hand.

Reverse the Sequence to achieve Basket Weave

To continue the basket weave pattern you simply reverse the sequence. That is, if you ended the previous row by working four FPdc, work BPdc instead. Thus, you are simultaneously working a horizontal block and a vertical one, depending on which side of the pattern you are looking at.

When you have completed the first row of blocks, alternate the order of the next row of blocks by working the following row of stitches in the same way as the previous row. Thus, if you finished that row with FPdc, begin the next row with FPdc.

By repeating the pattern rows as established you will achieve a warm and richly textured fabric that can be used to make sweaters, blankets, rugs, belts and more. You can use a variety of threads and yarns with this stitch.

Working a BPdc

For the horizontal block, the process is reversed. Instead of inserting the hook from front to back, you insert it from the back of the work to the front.

Wind yarn around the hook(YO) and insert hook between 4th and 5th dc of preceeding row, from back to front. Take hook over the 5th dc, then insert it between 5th and 6th dc from front to back.

Wind yarn around hook(YO), draw it through, there are now three loops on hook, and complete the dc in the usual way. This is called BPdc.

Work around each of next three dc in the same way, alternating the groups of horizontal and vertical stitches.

Working a FPdc

After completing your base row of doubles, turn the work and make three chains to count as first stitch.

Wind yarn around hook(YO) and insert the hook between the first and second dc from front to back.

Take hook behind the second dc then bring it to the front between second and third dc.

Wind yarn around hook(YO) and draw it through. You now have three loops on hook. Complete the double crochet in the usual way. This is called FPdc.

Work around next two dc in the same way.

These first four stitches (counting the turning chain at edge) will form part of the first vertical block.

Basket Weave Pattern Technique

The basket weave pattern is not nearly as complicated as it looks. The technique consists of working double crochets around each other, instead of working them into the tops of the stitches in the preceding row as you normally do.

In this way you form horizontal and vertical blocks of double crochet.

By alternating the placement of the blocks, you produce the basket weave effect.

Beaded Crocheted Belt

Materials Needed:
Steel crochet hook size 7 (U.S.)
Pony Beads-120 total
Size 10 Bedspread weight Crochet Cotton Thread, approx. 750 yds.

Guage: 8dc and 5 dc rows = 1inch

Stitches Used: Chain Stitch (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc)
Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc)

Special Note: Ch 3 counts as first dc

Row 1: Ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. (20sc)

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in each sc across, turn. (20dc)

Row 3: Ch 3, FPdc around each of next 3 dc, (BPdc around each of next 4 dc, FPdc around each of next 4 dc) twice, turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, BPdc around each of next 3 dc, (FPdc around each of next 4 dc, BPdc around each of next 4 dc) twice, turn.

Row 5: Rep Row 3

Row 6 & 7: Rep Row 4

Row 8: Rep Row 3

Rows 9 & 10: Rep Row 4

Continue in established pattern until belt measures 60" or desired length.

Last Row: Ch 1, sc in each dc across. Work 3 sc in last dc, turn belt so long edge is now on top, sc evenly across long edge, work 3 sc in corner, turn, sc in each sc across, turn, sc evenly across long edge, work 2 more sc in last corner, then join with a sl st.

Cut ten 24" strands of crochet thread. Put one pony bead on a strand and tie ends together in an overhand knot. Put 11 more beads on by passing knot through each bead. The first bead will hold them in place. Using crochet hook pull knotted end through short end of belt and tie it on with a double knot. Weave ends through sts in belt to hide. Repeat 4 more times on same end of belt and 5 times on opposite end.

The Canvas!

I wanted to show you the front and back of this blanket. The front side is on the left and it is neat and has all these vertical lines that line up with each other. These help me to know if I dropped a stitch in the middle of a row. This can happen when you put the project down. Reminds me of my knitting days when that happens.

The back side is a lot like stockinette stitch in knitting. That is on the right side of the picture.

I folded the afghan over so you could see the front and the back at the same time. It is very easy to know which side is which.

I will continue to work loop rows and return rows until this afghan is the size I need it to be. I will embroider a picture on it when the time comes. It resembles a counted cross stitch fabric. If you look at yours closely you will see that the vertical lines have the perfect place to insert a tapestry needle into and they are a bit like squares. Works real good with cross stitching.

I make the 'canvas' for my cross stitching with the basic tunisian stitch. I can add a border or a ruffle with a regular crochet hook when I'm done. It is very nice to know that you can combine these two crafts to produce a true work of art!

Loop Rows and Return Rows

After you have put the loops on the hook(loop row) you made sure you pulled up a loop at the end of the row, you are now ready to take the loops off the hook(return row).

For the first loop at the end of the row, you YO and draw through the One loop, then you YO and draw through Two loops and continue to the end of the return row, where you are left with one loop on your hook.

The only time you yarn over and draw through one loop is at the end of the row. Otherwise you yarn over and draw through two loops.

How Not To Drop Stitches

This is where most people drop a stitch. Don't be one of those people. Make sure you always insert hook and draw up a loop in the last stitch. I used the red yarn for contrast to help you see what I'm talking about. I pulled the red yarn out when I finished taking the pictures.

How Not To Add Stitches

I'm making a big issue out of this for a reason. Most people that end up with too many stitches pick them up by inserting the hook in the first vertical loop. Don't be one of those people.

Insert the hook in the second vertical bar to get the correct number of loops/stitches in your work.

Two Loops on Hook

The picture shows where I have the added the second loop by drawing up a loop in the second vertical bar of row one.

Proceed to draw up loops through all vertical bars across, working right to left. Be sure to draw up a loop at the end.

Working the Second Row of Tunisian

It is important to note here that you never turn your work with Tunisian Stitch.

With that in mind, we proceed to row two. The picture shows the vertical loops left from row one. Insert the hook in the second loop of row one, YO and draw through. You now have two loops on your hook.